However, like any wheelset, there are a few steps you need to follow to successfully install and run a tubeless system.
Pros of running tubeless are:
- More puncture resistant tire system
- Ability to run lower PSI
- Tire that holds pressure longer (less trips to the pump)
- You get to tell all your friends you are running tubeless (if you have ever ridden with anybody who is riding tubeless you already know this)
Cons of running tubeless are:
- Tires can be a lot harder to mount
- You usually need an air compressor to get initial inflation
- Changing a flat on the side of the road can be very difficult
Despite the cons, people like the tubeless set up because of the better protection against flat tires. You will be running sealant inside the tire, and with only having a tire to seal (vs. both a tube and tire), small punctures seal themselves. Note that any major cuts, or snake bite flats from bottoming out can still lead to flat tires, even when running tubeless. Yet, for the majority of times where a pinhole type of puncture occurs, tubeless will not flat in those situations.
We spent years in coming up with the new rim profiles to ensure a perfect tubeless setup.
Things like angle of the rim bed, center channels, rim diameters, even spoke hole width were considered. With this, we are confident we have the best possible solution for running a tubeless setup (right down to the nut used to tighten the valve). Below is a video that shows the Boyd Cycling tubeless advantage and why Boyd is the real first name of tubeless.
Tubeless specific tire – The tire MUST say tubeless specific on it. Tubeless specific tires have a reinforced bead on them, if you try to run a non-tubeless specific tire as a tubeless set up it will not seat right and will blow off the rim.
Tubeless valve – In order to create an air tight seal, you need a valve that securely clamps in place. We have tubeless valves designed for every depth of rim we offer. Each tubeless valve will come with our patent pending tubeless wing nut, a unique solution to being able to tighten and loosen the nut on your tubeless valves.
Tubeless rim tape – We give you the option of adding a tubeless set up on your wheels. When you do, you will have two layers of our blue tubeless tape installed on the rim. If you are looking to convert the 2016 model rims (with the tubeless rim bed) and need tubeless tape, you need 25mm wide tape for the rim bed.
Sealant – The sealant is what helps make the tubeless system more puncture proof. After you have the tire and valve installed, but before inflating the tire, you will want to add the sealant inside the tire.
Tire levers – Tubeless tires fit tighter on the rims and can be a lot harder to install. If you are not comfortable using a tire lever then tubeless may not be the best option (especially if you flat while out on a ride). The alloy wheels will be easier to mount a tire on compared to the carbons. With the carbon clinchers, the bead seat is already fairly tight, so installing a tubeless tire on them will be difficult. Use a tire lever, go slowly pushing small part of the tire over the hook. The good news is you don’t have to worry about pinching your tube when installing a tire. Note that we have installed dozens of tubeless tires on carbon clinchers and have never had one that was close to being impossible. Some tires go on much easier than others.
Air compressor – In order to get initial pressure into the tire and get it to seat in the rim, a pump usually will not supply air fast enough for this. An air compressor can save you a lot of unnecessary pumping (cyclists are notorious for not having arm strength).